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Friday, October 19, 2007

Mixed feelings...

First of all, Good News.... our camera is being fixed and will be returned to us soon!!! Yay!

Ok so enough of that, Last night my friend Audrey came up from town so we could surf together this morning. This week there was finally a good north swell that we could enjoy. Since this was a pretty big swell, we decided to go to Turtle Bay, those more experienced surfers were probably ALL found somewhere along the Seven Mile Miracle or the true North Shore. On bigger swells, I am able to go to Turtle Bay and still feel somewhat safe and not quite so out of my league. Plus, its not one of those super hot spots and is usually much less crowded. So Audrey and I got up and headed out for an epic surf session. We paddled out and were pleasantly surprised with only 2 other surfers out there! After catching my first wave, it was apparent that we had made a great choice in where to surf today! It was perfect! 2-3+ great conditions and my favorite.... no crowd! we kept getting wave after wave and were pretty stoked! Too good to be true? No dont say that you'll jinx it!
So we had been surfing for about an hour when I took off on a wave... it was just like any other, but this time I fell (and thats normal too sometimes....) and when I fell, I got all jumbled around in the wave and somewhere in the middle of it CRACK! my board nails me right in the nose! OUCH that hurt! First thought..... I broke my nose! Second thought (once I come up from under the water and see the blood in my hand) oh no the sharks are gonna come eat me! I called out to Audrey and she looks over and see's the blood and paddles over to see if I'm ok. She inspects my face and we paddle in. Since we're at Turtle Bay resort i walk up to the pool area and get some ice from the Bar people, we go out to the truck so we can put the ice in a shirt or bag or something (they gave it to me in a cup). So we sit on the tailgate iceing my nose for a bit. So when I got hit, my nose was bleeding from the inside and it split or cut the skin on my face next to my nose.
Afterthoughts.... ok so my nose hurts.... but the really big problem I'm having is that we had to come in from a perfectly good surf session! I was pretty mad about that! So after iceing and getting some Aleeve from a lady walking by in the parking lot and reapplying sunscreen we hopped back in the water. Too bad by this time the crowd had grown about 4 to 5 times! So I have mixed feelings about this whole thing.... That really hurt! and still does might I add... my nose is a little swollen and I have a cut on my face... but, I had some of the best surfing i've had in a while! Good thing I have the squishy "poly" nose (Thanks Dad!) or I'm sure it would be broken.... I dont think it is though.

For your viewing pleasure... here's the little cut I got... and yes, I have a lot of freckles!

5 comments:

Mahina said...

awww, poor baby! so, you're sure it's not broken? it sounds painful! you know me, i would have worried about the sharks, too! (just like when mitch cut his head at sharks cove! hehe!)

glad you had a great surf up until that point.

i just have to say that i love that picture of you! i don't know why, but i think it is so cool! did you take it yourself?

get better! the squishy poly nose is definately the best!

Malia said...

yeah i took it.... I was looking in the mirror at the display screen to see if it was focusing and had me in the frame hahah. I dont think its broken, dont really know how you can tell... still looks straight though so thats good. but its is painful! Love you!

tutu lady said...

Ouch! Are you still hurtin'? My poor paby! Kawika went surfing this morning, said it was fun! Not as warm as you all, but it'll be about 75 - 80 at the beach today. He's going again in a few min.(must be good) He's fueling up now.
Please take care of yourself. Love you and your squishy poly nose.

Andie Foy said...

So sorry to hear about your nose! You are one brave girl...I could never do that. =) My mom said that if you close your mouth and you can breath throw your nose, it is not broken. One of Laurens H20 friends got it pretty good to the nose, bleeding alot and everything--and my Mom told her that if she could breath throw her nose it was not broken--well they went to the Doctor anyway--and he told them the same thing! =) Hope it feels better soon! Stay safe out there and stay away from sharks! ;) Love ya!

Michal said...

ouch! you are so tough to head back out into the water. glad you didn't attract the sharks--yikes!
take care of that cute poly nose of yours.