Saturday, August 2, 2008

Back on board!

Yesterday I was able to go out surfing again for the first time in over 4 months! Stuart wanted to go surf and it was such a beautiful day that I couldn't resist just going out and paddling around a bit. We thought it was going to be pretty small but when we got out there, we were surprised at how good it was!

I was on a longboard which I only know how to surf on super small waves that go forever. I felt a little uncomfortable out there because you can't duck dive on a longboard... at least I can't. So I was just sitting over on the side but when a wave would come my way I couldn't let it pass me by without giving it a try! I was able to catch a few waves and had some fun! I just had to be super careful about my wrist when I stood up. Instead of pushing up like normal, I had to use my fingertips so i wouldn't be bending my wrist.

Towards the end Stuart and I switched boards (I learned how to surf on a shortboard so I feel much more at home on them) and I was even able to catch a few on it! It felt so good to be back in the water like that!

It was so beautiful as we were paddling in as the sun sunk behind the mountain... sigh... The sky looked like a painting and I felt like it was missing pink elephants on parade... thats what I was thinking at the time, whats that from anyways (you know the song) is it from fantasia? I can see the ballerina hippos are the pink elephants from that too? anywhoo... a beautiful evening and the perfect first session back for me!


tutu lady said...

soooo happy, you got to go out surfing again! It was just ment to be (on a day like that). You better get in shape for the tough assignment you have later this month. (chasing 3 active girls around for 3 days) Aloha to ya'll

Malia said...

haha yeah mom, but its 6 days not 3!

Erika said...

glad you could get back on board :-)
Its from Dumbo.

Mahina said...

so glad you could get out! you need to get out as much as possible before you get out here so you can strengthen that wrist for the river rafting trip and the wakeboarding we are going to do while you and kawika are here! can't wait!

ashley said...

yeah for getting back on board. when luke tole me he saw you surfing i was so happy for you!

we went to goats the next day and it was so junk, glad you got it while it was good!

The Foy Family said...

That is so great!! I am glad you got to go back out in the water again! Hope you have more fun surfing times ahead!! =)
Well tomorrow we head out your way! But I am so sad we won't be seeing you close...yet so far! =) I hope to see you than later! haha.... =)

Love you!! Take care!!

PS- Hope you have a blast in Oregon!! and let me know how watching the girls goes! =)

Michal said...

i'm so glad that you are back to your normal self. and i'm so glad you are joining the exercise challenge. i thought you'd like it. send me an email (i don't have your address) so that i can give you permission to update the spreadsheet.